Exploring Naples with my teenage son – ancient ruins, volcanic adventures, underwater history and a few unexpected surprises along the way.

Destination: Naples, Italy

Dates: 9–13 July 2026

Duration: 4 nights

Travellers: Myself and my teenage son

Highlights: Pompeii, Mount Vesuvius, Capri, Baia snorkelling and the Maradona murals

Four Nights in Naples – An Italian Adventure

Naples had been on my list of places to visit for a while, particularly because I'd wanted to explore the ancient Roman city of Pompeii ever since I was a kid.

So when my teenage son and I headed to Naples for four nights in July, I was determined to make the most of our time there.

We certainly managed that!

Between hiking around Mount Vesuvius, exploring Pompeii, taking a ferry to Capri and snorkelling above ancient Roman ruins, we packed plenty into our trip.

We also discovered some great little places to eat, explored the famous Spanish Quarter and experienced the joys of Naples' rather unpredictable public transport.

And when I say unpredictable, I mean spending nearly two hours waiting for a bus that was supposedly running every 15 minutes! 😂

The weather was absolutely roasting throughout our stay, but despite the heat and a few unexpected expenses, we had a brilliant time.

Here's how we got on, what I'd recommend and what I'd do differently next time.

The round stone towers of Castel Nuovo seen across Piazza Municipio in bright sunshine.
Castel Nuovo, close to the port in Naples.

Getting from Naples Airport to the Port

Getting from Naples Airport into the city was surprisingly straightforward and inexpensive.

We took the airport shuttle bus directly to the port area, which cost us just €5 per person.

It was a really convenient option because our apartment was located around Piazza Municipio, so we were already close to where we needed to be.

For anyone staying around the port or planning to catch a ferry to Capri, it's definitely a transfer option worth considering.

At €5 each, it was also a great way to keep our airport transfer costs down.

Where We Stayed – A Lovely Apartment with a 10-Cent Lift!

For our four-night stay, I booked President Plaza Vip Suite Spa by Babylon Stay, located at 84 Piazza Municipio.

The apartment was really nice, had everything we needed and was in an excellent location for exploring the city.

We were close to the port, which was particularly useful for our ferry trip to Capri, and we could easily explore the surrounding streets and restaurants.

There was, however, one rather unusual feature.

Our apartment was on the ninth floor, and you had to pay 10 cents to use the lift! 😂

Not exactly a major expense, but definitely something worth knowing before arriving, especially if you haven't got any small change.

After a long day exploring Pompeii or hiking around a volcano in the July heat, walking up nine flights of stairs wasn't particularly appealing!

Despite that, we really enjoyed staying there. It was comfortable, well located and had everything we needed.

My tip: If you're staying in the same building, keep a few 10-cent coins handy!

Mount Vesuvius – The Hike Nobody Was Expecting! 🌋

One of the excursions I'd booked was a combined Mount Vesuvius and Pompeii tour departing from the Port of Naples.

The original plan was to visit Pompeii first and Vesuvius later in the afternoon.

However, because the temperatures were so high, the tour operator decided to reverse the itinerary and tackle Vesuvius in the morning instead.

Looking back, that was probably a very sensible decision!

When we'd booked the tour, we were expecting to make our way up towards the famous summit crater.

Instead, our excursion took us down towards the older volcanic crater area.

And what a hike it turned out to be!

I genuinely don't think anyone in our group expected it to be quite so demanding.

One woman had even turned up wearing a summer dress, which probably tells you everything you need to know about how prepared some of us were for the walk! 😂

Even though we'd started in the morning to avoid the worst of the afternoon heat, it was still absolutely roasting.

It certainly wasn't the volcano experience we'd originally imagined, but it made for a memorable adventure.

What I'd Recommend

If you're thinking about booking a Vesuvius excursion, make sure you understand exactly which route is included.

Some tours may use alternative walking routes depending on conditions, and these aren't necessarily easier than the summit walk.

I'd definitely recommend comfortable walking shoes, plenty of water, sunscreen and a hat, particularly during July and August.

And perhaps leave the summer dress back at the hotel! 😂

Dry volcanic hillside and sparse trees overlooking the valley and distant mountains during the Vesuvius hike.
The exposed landscape on our Vesuvius hike.

Pompeii – Finally Visiting Somewhere I'd Dreamed About Since Childhood

After our volcanic adventure, we headed to Pompeii.

This was probably the attraction I'd been looking forward to most.

Pompeii was somewhere I'd wanted to visit since I was a kid. I'd always been fascinated by the story of the Roman city buried following the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in AD 79.

Actually getting the chance to walk around the ancient streets and see the remains of the city was an amazing experience.

We had a guided tour, and our guide was extremely knowledgeable. It was fascinating hearing about the history and learning more about the buildings and the people who once lived there.

However, there was one downside.

We only had two hours to explore Pompeii.

For somewhere with so much history, that simply wasn't enough time for me.

Although I really enjoyed the guided tour, I came away feeling that we'd only scratched the surface.

Would I Visit Pompeii Independently Next Time?

Absolutely.

If I returned, I'd visit Pompeii independently rather than as part of a combined guided excursion.

That's not a criticism of our guide, who was excellent. I simply think Pompeii deserves much more time than we had.

I'd love to spend several hours wandering around the ancient streets, exploring the buildings and discovering different parts of the archaeological site at my own pace.

If you're visiting Naples and Pompeii is one of your main reasons for going, I'd seriously consider setting aside most of a day for it.

Was the Combined Tour Worth It?

Yes, particularly if you've only got limited time and want to visit both Pompeii and Vesuvius in one day.

Having the transport organised makes everything easier, and we enjoyed both experiences.

However, if you're particularly interested in Pompeii's history, I'd recommend visiting independently so you're not restricted to a short guided visit.

Our tour: Pompeii and Mount Vesuvius Day Trip from Naples – Viator

A Day Trip to Capri – Beautiful, Busy and Bloody Expensive! 😂

Another excursion we'd planned was a day trip to the island of Capri.

We caught the ferry from the Port of Naples and headed across the Bay of Naples towards the island.

Capri is famous for its spectacular scenery, luxury hotels and designer shops, and it certainly has a reputation for being an expensive destination.

Having now visited, I can confirm that reputation is well deserved! 😂

Exploring Capri and Anacapri

After arriving on the island, we took the funicular up from Marina Grande to Capri town.

From there, we decided to head towards Anacapri.

That meant squeezing onto a ridiculously small and cramped bus, which wasn't exactly the most comfortable experience in the July heat!

Once we reached Anacapri, we took the chairlift up to the summit of Monte Solaro, the highest point on Capri.

This was one of the highlights of our visit. The chairlift itself was a great experience, but the views from the top were absolutely fantastic.

Looking out across the island and the surrounding sea was incredible, and it was definitely worth making the journey up to Anacapri.

If you're visiting Capri, I'd highly recommend including the Monte Solaro chairlift in your plans. For me, the views alone made it worthwhile.

We also spent some time wandering around the streets lined with designer shops.

It was interesting to see, although the prices were certainly a reminder that Capri isn't exactly a budget shopping destination!

Sunlit Capri shopping street lined with Ralph Lauren, Bulgari and Dior boutiques.
Capri’s designer shopping streets.

The island was also extremely busy during our visit.

If you're imagining a quiet little Italian island where you can wander around in peace, visiting Capri in the middle of July might come as a bit of a shock.

Despite the crowds and prices, I'm glad we went. It's a beautiful island and completely different from the atmosphere of Naples itself.

A Useful Tip About Capri Ferry Tickets

One thing that surprised me was the flexibility we experienced with our return ferry tickets.

I'd originally booked return travel with one ferry company for a specific departure time.

However, when it came to returning to Naples, we were allowed to use our tickets with a completely different ferry company and at a different time.

That was a pleasant surprise and gave us more flexibility than I'd expected.

I wouldn't assume this is always possible, as ferry operators have different ticket conditions, but it's definitely worth asking at the port if you'd prefer to return earlier or later.

My Capri advice: Expect crowds during the summer, budget for higher prices and don't miss the opportunity to explore Anacapri rather than spending your entire visit around Capri town.

Snorkelling Over Ancient Roman Ruins in Baia – An Amazing Experience and a €70 Taxi Disaster! 🤿

One of the most unusual experiences we booked was snorkelling over the submerged Roman ruins at Baia, outside Naples.

Baia was once a fashionable seaside retreat for wealthy Romans, but volcanic activity caused parts of the ancient settlement to gradually sink beneath the water.

Today, visitors can explore some of these underwater remains on guided snorkelling and diving excursions.

Neither my son nor I had ever been snorkelling before, but the idea of swimming above ancient Roman ruins sounded too good to miss.

I booked our experience through GetYourGuide, and it turned out to be one of the highlights of our entire holiday.

Our First Snorkelling Experience

Being complete beginners, we weren't entirely sure what to expect.

Thankfully, the guides were absolutely brilliant.

They were incredibly helpful, made us feel comfortable in the water and ensured we could enjoy the experience despite having never snorkelled before.

We both thought it was amazing.

Exploring ancient Roman history beneath the water was something completely different from anything we'd experienced before.

I'd happily recommend the excursion, even to people who have never tried snorkelling.

Unfortunately, getting there was another story entirely!

The Great Naples Bus Disaster! 😂

I'd planned our journey to Baia using the local bus service.

According to the timetable, the bus was supposed to run every 15 minutes.

Sounds straightforward enough, doesn't it?

Well, not quite.

We waited at the bus stop for over an hour before a bus finally appeared.

And then it drove straight past us!

Seriously! 😂

After waiting another 40 minutes, I realised we were in danger of missing our booked snorkelling excursion.

In the end, I had to flag down a taxi and pay €70 just to get us there.

Not exactly the budget-friendly journey I'd originally planned!

You'd think we'd have learned our lesson by the time we were heading back to Naples.

Unfortunately, we decided to give the bus another chance.

This time, we waited an hour and a half for a service that was supposedly running every 15 minutes.

By that point, I was starting to wonder whether the timetable was purely decorative! 😂

Looking back, I really wish we'd investigated the train connections and onward transport rather than relying on the buses.

Would I Recommend Baia Snorkelling?

Absolutely, without hesitation.

Despite the transport nightmare and the unexpected taxi expense, the actual snorkelling experience was fantastic.

The guides were excellent, it was suitable for us as complete beginners, and seeing ancient Roman remains beneath the water was unforgettable.

My advice: Research your transport options carefully, allow plenty of extra time and don't rely on a tight bus connection when you've got an excursion booked.

And whatever you do, don't assume a bus advertised as running every 15 minutes will actually turn up every 15 minutes!

Our excursion: Baia Snorkelling Experience with Roman Ruins – GetYourGuide

Submerged Roman mosaic and stone remains at Portus Julius in the underwater archaeological park of Baia.
Illustrative photograph of a submerged Roman mosaic at Portus Julius in Baia’s underwater archaeological park. Ruthven / Wikimedia Commons, CC0 1.0. This is not a photograph from our excursion. Image source and licence.

Exploring Naples – The Spanish Quarter and Maradona Murals ⚽

Black and white Maradona mural against a blue circle in the Spanish Quarter of Naples.
The famous Diego Maradona mural in Naples' Spanish Quarter – a fascinating tribute to the football legend who means so much to the city.

Although we'd packed plenty of excursions into our four nights, we also enjoyed exploring Naples itself.

We were staying around Piazza Municipio, close to the port, and I really liked the atmosphere in that part of the city.

It was surprisingly chilled, and we enjoyed wandering around the surrounding streets.

One of the places we visited was the famous Maradona murals.

We walked up through the Spanish Quarter, known locally as Quartieri Spagnoli, to see the artwork dedicated to Diego Maradona.

Maradona is an absolute legend in Naples, having helped Napoli win two Serie A titles during his time at the club.

His connection with the city is still incredibly strong, and the murals and football memorabilia are a reflection of that.

We found the murals really interesting, and walking through the Spanish Quarter was a great way to experience another side of Naples.

It's somewhere I'd definitely recommend including in a visit, especially if you're interested in football.

Driving in Naples – Does Anyone Ever Stop Beeping? 😂

One thing that really stood out during our visit was the driving.

I've visited plenty of busy cities, but I don't think I've ever heard so many car horns in my life!

The roads seemed absolutely chaotic, with cars and scooters everywhere and drivers constantly beeping their horns.

I'm not sure whether the horn is used as a warning, a greeting or simply to announce that you're driving through Naples, but they certainly get plenty of use! 😂

It was all part of the experience, though, and added to the character of the city.

Interestingly, despite the chaos on the roads, we found the area around the port where we stayed quite relaxed.

Naples definitely has two sides to it: the chilled waterfront atmosphere and the wonderfully chaotic streets just a short walk away.

Eating in Naples – Some Great Little Local Finds

One of the things I enjoy about travelling is finding little local cafés and restaurants rather than eating exclusively around the main tourist attractions.

During our stay, we discovered a couple of really good places close to our apartment.

Pasticceria Caffetteria Marsicano

One of our favourite little finds was Pasticceria Caffetteria Marsicano, a bakery and café around the port area.

They did absolutely boss croissants and little ham-and-cheese rolls.

It was exactly the sort of place you want to discover when you're staying somewhere for a few days.

Sometimes it's the smaller, unexpected food stops that end up being the most memorable.

Murzill

Another good find was Murzill, a restaurant just around the corner from our apartment.

The carbonara there was really good, and it was handy having somewhere nice to eat so close to where we were staying.

Carbonara topped with cheese and pieces of cured pork on a patterned plate at Murzill.
The carbonara at Murzill.

Sole365 – A Handy Budget-Friendly Supermarket

Because we'd booked an apartment rather than a hotel, having a supermarket nearby was really useful.

We found a Sole365 supermarket on Via dell'Incoronata, which was cheap and conveniently located for our accommodation.

It's a simple money-saving tip, but buying drinks, snacks and essentials from a local supermarket can save quite a bit compared with purchasing everything from cafés or tourist attractions.

Practical Tips for Visiting Naples

After spending four nights exploring Naples and the surrounding area, there are a few things I'd recommend to anyone planning a similar trip.

1. Don't underestimate the July heat. It was absolutely roasting during our visit, particularly when hiking around Vesuvius and exploring Pompeii. Carry plenty of water, wear sunscreen and plan physically demanding activities for cooler parts of the day wherever possible.

2. Give Pompeii more than two hours. If you're interested in Roman history, consider visiting independently rather than squeezing it into a combined excursion.

3. Research your transport carefully. Our experience with the buses to Baia was terrible. Investigate train connections, alternative routes and backup transport, particularly when you have activities booked for specific times.

4. Expect Capri to be expensive. It's a beautiful island, but prices and summer crowds can be a shock. Budget accordingly.

5. Consider staying around Piazza Municipio. We found it a convenient location for the port, restaurants and exploring the city.

6. Try the smaller local food spots. Some of our favourite food discoveries were little cafés and restaurants close to our apartment.

7. Don't overlook Baia. If you're interested in history and fancy something adventurous, snorkelling above submerged Roman ruins is a brilliant experience.

8. If you're thinking about hiring a car in Naples, spend five minutes watching the traffic first!

Final Thoughts – Would I Return to Naples?

Definitely!

We had a brilliant four nights in Naples, and it's definitely somewhere I'd like to return to.

From finally getting to explore Pompeii, somewhere I'd wanted to visit since childhood, to hiking around Mount Vesuvius, discovering Capri and snorkelling above ancient Roman ruins at Baia, we managed to pack some unforgettable experiences into our trip.

There were a few unexpected adventures along the way, particularly the rather ambitious Vesuvius hike and the nightmare trying to get a bus to Baia.

That unexpected €70 taxi certainly wasn't part of the original holiday budget! 😂

But those little mishaps are all part of travelling, and they certainly gave us a few stories to bring home.

If I were doing the trip again, I'd spend more time exploring Pompeii independently, plan my transport to Baia differently and probably avoid relying on the Naples buses!

Naples itself was a great base, with lovely food, interesting neighbourhoods and a surprisingly relaxed atmosphere around the port where we stayed.

And there's still plenty more I'd like to see.

Next time, I've got my sights set on Ischia, another island in the Bay of Naples that looks absolutely beautiful.

So yes, I'd definitely recommend Naples, particularly if you enjoy combining history, sightseeing and a bit of adventure.

Just remember to pack comfortable walking shoes, plenty of sunscreen and a few 10-cent coins for the apartment lift! 😂

Forever Travelling – One world. Endless adventures.

← Back to all entries